An Interview with Chef Alain Ducasse: “give our guests the experience of a Grand Siècle dinner, the Age of Louis XIV”

Chef Ducasse, you have found in the Grand Contrôle an establishment worthy of your cuisine. What were the original thoughts and inspiration of this establishment where you dine by candlelight and also in costume, as Versailles requires? That’s how dinners used to be held here.

As it happens, in the fall of 2016, I opened a restaurant, “Ore,” in the Pavillon Dufour at the Château de Versailles. This experience played an important role: I discovered on this occasion the incredible richness of this monument, a mythical place of the Ancien Régime. From then on, I obviously became passionate about the cuisine of the period. When Stéphane Courbit asked me to join him in his ambitious project of the Grand Contrôle, I accepted with enthusiasm.

Restaurant staff and chef Alain Ducasse. Photo Credit : ©Philippe Vaures Santamaria

What convinced you to accept the challenge of this gastronomic restaurant that you have been entrusted with managing? What does the former television producer Stéphane Courbit bring to the restaurant?

I accepted it because it was a challenge! More seriously: I like to face challenges but I also like to be successful. The partnership with Stéphane Courbit, from this point of view, was essential. With the Les Airelles brand, he brings a remarkable savoir-faire to the very high-end hotel business. He was therefore the ideal partner to embark on this adventure – and succeed!

How did the launch of the project go?

The initial idea, to give our guests the experience of a Grand Siècle dinner, was immediately obvious. However, the preparation work was particularly long. We did a lot of research in the archives to find as much information as possible about the cuisine of Versailles and the rituals of the meals. We also worked a lot with craftsmen to reconstitute the decor of the dining rooms and to choose the tableware. And then, of course, we had to perfect each recipe and the succession of services, not to mention the training of the wait staff who play an almost theatrical role in the meal ceremony.

Restaurant – Cabinet Marie-Antoinette. Photo Credit: ©Renee Kemps

Photo Credit : ©Philippe Vaures Santamaria Photo Credit: ©Renee Kemps

The type of cuisine and its presentation reflect the image of the place, you have bet on a theatrical staging, there is excess even in the place settings. The dishes, of which there are many, are brought in successive waves called “services.” Can you name a few of the dishes served at this dinner that recreates a grand supper?

Among the starters, we offer an egg with caviar. Egg whites are whisked, the sauce, very creamy, made with the yolks, is flavored with Noilly. In the cuisine of the Ancien Régime and until the 19th century, the “relevé” designated a dish that followed another. The dish that followed the soup was called “relevé de potage.” The “relevé” we are serving at the Grand Contrôle is a stuffed sole, green asparagus, and lemon. It is followed by a “rôt” (i.e. a roasted piece of meat) which is a beef au jus. “Entremets” is also a term whose meaning has evolved. In the early Middle Ages, it was a savory dish served after the meat. This meaning lasted until the end of the Ancien Régime, but it soon became a kind of dessert. The entremet currently on our menu is a roasted duck foie gras with bitter salad and root vegetables. Desserts (literally “what is served after serving the table”) flourished from the reign of Louis XV. We will taste a vacherin, a sakura tea (a green tea with cherry blossom) and an original recipe, the “King’s cake.”

In your opinion, is French cuisine still the best in the world? Is there a place for evolution in the cuisine at the Grand Contrôle restaurant?

In the 21st century, with a gastronomic scene that has become global and incredibly diverse, claiming to be the best in the world makes little sense. On the other hand, it can be said that French cuisine is fortunate to have been codified for a very long time and to have developed a particularly complete body of techniques. From this point of view, it occupies an original and unique place. At Grand Contrôle, our intention is to offer an experience that is both authentic – the inspiration for the cuisine is truly historical – and adapted to today’s consumers – in terms of portion size, length of the meal, and even taste. Evolutions are ongoing. Each restaurant has to tell its own story and thus give our customers the freedom to choose the one they want to experience.

About the Author

Isabelle Karamooz, Founder of FQM is originally from Versailles, France. Isabelle harbored a lifelong fascination with exploring the world. Her journey began at 17 when she seized the opportunity to study abroad in Rhonda, Spain, igniting a passion for travel that took her across continents. From vibrant Hong Kong to picturesque Ireland, from the historic streets of Italy to the enchanting landscapes of Morocco, she embraced diverse cultures and experiences, truly embodying the spirit of a global citizen. After several years of exploration, Isabelle found a sense of home in Los Angeles, where she immersed herself in the vibrant cultural scene while working at the French Consulate. With a deep-seated love for the arts and history, she pursued her academic endeavors, earning a Bachelor's degree in History from the University of California, Berkeley. Furthering her dedication to education, she has studied to pursue a Master's program in teaching at the University of Southern California, eventually sharing her knowledge and passion as a French instructor for aspiring students at UNLV and CSN in Nevada. Driven by her passion for storytelling and cultural exchange, Isabelle founded French Quarter Magazine, where she serves as the Editor-in-Chief. In this role, she orchestrates the publication's diverse content, from conducting interviews and pitching story ideas to capturing captivating moments through photography. Currently, she is channeling her creative energies into her first English-language work, a novel that delves into the compelling life of Coco Chanel. Filled with adventure, intrigue, and a touch of romance, her debut novel promises to captivate readers with its rich tapestry of history and emotion.